Sensitive Skin
Dear Readers - Many of you write to me on the blog about problems with reactions to skincare products. These reactions are mostly due to the many chemicals used in skincare products. Some of you are also easily irritated by scrubs, acidic products (mostly antioxidants and glycolics), and retinoids (Vitamin A cousins). Here are some well tested ideas. Still not all of you will tolerate all of these, so use your good judgment.
When trying new products, always start one at a time about 3-7 days apart, so if you have a problem, you know which product it is!
1) Gentle cleanser - over scrubbing makes pigment worse
2) Gentle antioxidant - they have been proven to decrease inflammation when tolerated
3) Moisturizer for sensitive skin - dry skin is more easily irritated
4) Hypoallergenic sunscreen
1) Gentle cleanser
2) A gentle Vit A cousin (retinoid) - most of the prescription versions (Renova, Retin A, tretinoin, etc) irritate sensitive skin. Here is the most gentle version I've found. If you tolerate this well, you may be able to move up to stronger ones.
3) Moisturizer for sensitive skin - use the moisturizer first if retinoids tend to irritate you.
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Sensitive Skin CleanserSkinMedica$36.00Size: 6 fl. oz
Who It's For
Dry, sensitive or post-procedure skin.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
We often use this cleanser for our post-laser care patients and others with sensitive or very dry skin. Very creamy, moisturizing but removes make-up. Packaging is travel friendly, but you have to check it (larger than 3 ounces so you cannot carry it on). Most with sensitive skin do very well with this cleanser. Not drying.
How to Use
Use gently with your hands twice a day.
Ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Power of Three CreamReplenix$68.00Size: 1 fl. oz
Who It's For:
Normal to dryer skin types and a good choice for sensitive skin.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
As antioxidants go, I still think the higher quality SkinCeuticals products or the high quality Vitamin C serums are more effective. But not everyone tolerates those or likes the serum formulation. This is a good option for those who don't like the serums or gels or just need an antioxidant that's quite gentle. Contains reservatrol and polyphenol (plant-based antioxidants) isolates. Also, this is more affordable than the SkinCeuticals ones.
How to Use
Apply in the morning under sunscreen or at night under your Vit A cream.
Ingredients
Purified Water, Squalane, Cyclomethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine U.S.P. Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Polyphenols, Resveratrol, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Bisabolol, Chamomilla Recutila (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Polysorbate-20, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Triethanolaine, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA
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Blueberry Soy Night Recovery CreamEminence$64.00Size: 2 fl oz
Who It's For
Mostly for dry, 40+ or estrogen-challenged skin
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
Organic. This rich moisturizer contains blueberry extract as an antioxidant and soy which has some estrogenic effects (helps plump the skin). Great for extremely dry skin. Smells wonderful and a very nice consistency. You don't need much and it's a very popular gift.
How to Use
Apply once or twice daily. You can thin it a little with water in your palm to make it a lighter consistency or if travelling to a more humid climate. I love this on airplanes to rehydrate hands and face and put it in a small container in my flight bag. It doesn't have a lot of preservatives, so if you haven't used it in 3 months after opening, throw it out.
Ingredients
Blueberry Juice, Blueberry Pulp, Corn Germ Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Shea Butter, Soy Yogurt, Raspberry Juice, Bramble Juice, Glyceryl Stearate, Grape Seed Oil, Calendula Oil, Glycerin (Vegetable Based), Xanthan Gum, Biocomplex (Vitamins A-C-E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid), Evening Primrose Oil, Glycine Derivative, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid
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Sugar Plum Oil-Free RevitalizerEminence$62.00Size: 2 fl. oz
Who It's For
Ideal for normal to oily and combination skin to balance out moisture levels without clogging the pores.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
Our patients with oilier skin love this. Organic and oil-free, a hard combination to find. This is a lightweight and lightly scented moisturizer, with some antioxidants. It can be hard to find a good moisturizer like this for oilier skin, and this works really well with skin that is oilier than normal or a bit acne prone. Expensive, but you don't need to use a lot.
How to Use
Apply a thin layer to cleansed skin as a moisturizer. For a lighter application, dilute product with water as needed.
Ingredients
Sugar Plum, Plum Juice, Rosehip, Sage Extract, Green Tea Extract, Plum Nectar, Watercress, Natural Cream Base, Biocomplex (Vitamin A, Vitamin E, Vitamin C, Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid), Plum Essence, Glycine Derivative
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SPF 30 Powder SunscreenColorescience$57.00Size: 0.21 oz
Who It's For
Everyone, nice for kids and men, and for double coverage over a lotion or cream sunscreen. Especially key for those with melasma or other pigment problems.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
Powder Sunscreen. This is a great invention. I love this product and use it all the time. The Medium shade is pretty clear and good for all sites. The Tan shade is the tinted version and is nice for the face. Especially great for outdoor sports because it can be reapplied without getting your hands greasy. It's also fast to apply due to the built-in brush applicator. Even better over a lotion sunscreen base. I often use this product over a lotion/cream sunscreen base especially for athletics and high sun situations.
Good for golf, cycling, hiking, open-water swimming, rock climbing, long distance running, rowing, and many other situations where grease doesn't cut it. It's lightweight and small to carry. Men and kids like this product usually.
Great for a humid climate (or oily skin), because it goes on dry and leaves no oily, greasy sheen. Expensive but worth it, and it lasts a long time. Layer it over a sunscreen lotion for maximum protection at altitude or in intense sun. Men like this product usually. Make sure to apply it in a well-ventilated area.
Use this SPF 30 for everyday use. Use the SPF 50 for outdoor activities or occupations or if you want extra protection.How to Use
Apply this in a well-ventilated area, and do not breathe in the powder. Brush on skin that has some moisture or lotion on it (i.e., not on dry skin) before sun exposure, repeat application after perspiring, immersion in water or toweling. It comes in a small tube, with a self-contained brush. You just shake the powder down, and brush on the powder. The powder stays on your skin, and the high zinc and titanium content gives you great UVA and UVB blocking.
Ingredients
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (12%), Zinc Oxide (12%) Inactive Ingredients: bismuth oxychloride, calcium, cilicate, corallina officinalis, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, iron oxide, manganese, violet, mica, titanium dioxide
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Tropical Vanilla Day Cream SPF 32Eminence$68.00Size: 2 fl. oz
Who It's For
Great for dry to normal skin. Too chalky for the darkest skin types or oily skin.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
Organic. Great product on the the neck and chest because it's very hydrating (remember very few oil glands on the neck especially), doesn't stain clothing and contains zinc 5% which blocks UV through the full spectrum. Subtle fragrance and a little chalky at first but absorbs well after a few minutes.
How to Use
Apply a generous amount to facial skin about 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. Massage until product is fully absorbed and reapply as necessary after excessive sweating or swimming.
Ingredients
Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6% Ingredients: Linden Tea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Vegetable Glycerin, Shea Butter, Aloe Juice, Corn Germ Oil, Biocomplex™ (Vitamin A, Vitamin C Ester, Vitamin E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid), Naturally-Derived Glyceryl Stearate, Natural Moisturizing Factor, Sodium PCA, Glycine Derivative, Corn-Derived Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Vanilla Extract, Lecithin
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Sensitive Skin Cleanser - PevoniaPevonia$31.00Size: 6.8 oz
Who It's For
Sensitive or irritated or post laser skin.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
For sensitive skin. Also see the Pevonia Soothing Sensitive Skin Cream that goes with this.
Creamy and gentle, and removes makeup well for a gentle cleanser. Contains safflower seed oil, horse chestnut seed extract and calendula extract. The size is almost 7 ounces and lasts a long time.
How to Use
Once or twice a day
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Polysorbate 20, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Tilia Cordata Flower Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopherol (Vit. E), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Allantoin
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Soothing Sensitive Skin CreamPevonia$61.50Size: 1.7 oz
Who It's For
Those with sensitive skin. Allergic problems with this product are rare. Not for acne.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
For sensitive skin. Hydrating and soothing. Much silkier than drugstore products. Good for those with product allergies. Has NO fragrance. Stlll try in one area first if you are extremely sensitive. We use this post-laser on most of our patients.
How to Use
At least twice a day. More is even better if dry.
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Propolis Cera, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol, Titanium Dioxide, Panthenol, Glycerin, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol
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Evolutive Eye CreamPevonia$67.50Size: 1 oz
Who It's For
For all skin types.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
My personal eye cream. Gentle and helps with early fine lines and crepeyness. Contains hyaluronic acid, Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Vit E, Glycolic acid (low concentration for the eye area), a little sunscreen, and a Vitamin C ester. It has enough low strength actives (better for the eye area) to be effective. Results evident at 30-60 days. I love the NeoCutis Lumerie Riche too, but I Iike to try new products and change things up sometime.
Mid weight, hydrating and good for sensitive skin.
How to Use
Morning and night - entire eye area and eyelids
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Elastin, Glyceryl Stearate, Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A), Glycerin, Tocopherol (Vit. E), Panthenol, Glycolic Acid, Superoxide Dismutase, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vit. E), Allantoin, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Dimethicone
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Retinol Complex .25SkinMedica$62.00Size: 1 oz
Who It's For
For sun-damaged skin and for those wanting to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and aging.
Dr. Irwin's Product Review
This is SkinMedica's updated version of the old Tri-Retinol Complex, and it is still an excellent over-the-counter retinol. At this percentage, the effects are similar to Renova/tretinoin, etc. Use at night. If you can use the prescription version of tretinoin (like Renova), do so - but many people don’t want to be bothered with a prescription and the two retinols listed on this site are almost as good. This retinol also has vitamin E in a base that will not clog pores and is still compatible with moisturizers and sunscreens. Also see the Neocutis Nouvelle+Retinol Correction Cream. Start with this one though if you have never used a retinoid before.
Retinoids are repair creams that have 20 years of science and experience behind them. They build collagen and normalize sun damaged keratinocytes (skin cells) and help to prevent precancerous growths and skin cancers if used regularly.
How to Use
Apply one pump to the face at night. Always use at night - light inactivates it. Begin using twice per week, then increase gradually. If this product irritates your skin a little, try applying your moisturizer first, then wait 10-20 minutes, then apply this. You must use a sunscreen every morning if you use a retinoid because your skin will be just slightly more sun sensitive. Stop this product a week before sunny vacations and consider not using it if you can't be consistent with sunscreen or truly are outdoors constantly.
Ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Niacinamide, Polyacrylate-13, Squalane, Retinol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Ceramide 3, Bisabolol, Phytosterols, Squalene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Cera), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Dicaprylyl Ether, Lauryl Alcohol, Polyisobutene, Dextran, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Dr. Brandith Irwin, MD
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Dr. Irwin is a board certified dermatologist in Seattle at Madison Skin & Laser Center. She has no financial ties to any cosmetic company.
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